Intro
Over New Year's I joined my friends Kate and Illona for five days of cycle touring in Southland. I hadn't been on the bike for months so it was a bit of a shock to the system. My GPS died some time ago so I recorded no distances.
Day 1: Te Anau to Mavora Lakes
I had the good fortune to stay with friends in Te Anau. It took me quite a while to pack the bike as it'd been many months since I'd done any cycle touring or bike packing. Finally after a lot of faffing I got underway shortly after 10am. Illona and Kate were in Queenstown and would take the TSS Earnslaw across Lake Wakatipu and meet me at Mavora Lakes where we'd camp.
Mavora Lakes is about 400m higher than Te Anau so the route was a gradual climb interspersed with short hills. I was feeling out of sorts and not sure if I'd have any endurance. In the end it wasn't too bad and a headwind swung around to a tailwind in the last hour.
There were a few showers but nothing of concern. It was really good to see Kate and Illona and they had found a really nice place to camp in the beech forest by the lake. I only had a fly to sleep under so was happy the rain and bugs stayed away.
Lynwood Road
Sheep
The road ahead. A few showers on the way.
Camping by South Mavora Lake.
Day 2: Mavora Lakes to Te Anau
It may seem crazy to return to where I was yesterday, but it was the best option to fit in with Illona and Kate's travel logistics. So I knew what to expect, but a road is always different in the other direction. We had a slight tailwind to start with which was very welcome. However, cycling karma happened and we ended up with quite a strong headwind on Lagoon Creek Road. We took the longer gravel back roads to get off the main highway where possible.
First snack stop, Mavora Lakes Road
The same sheep I photographed on Day 1
Gritty country
Illona, Mavora Lakes Road
Day 3: Te Anau to Nightcaps
The day was very hot. My right knee was hurting and I seriously considered bailing and staying in Te Anau, but the morning's ride was so pleasant with a tail wind that on balance things were good. There had been some discussion as to camping on the route somewhere, but council bylaws forbid freedom camping so we decided to make it to Nightcaps where we stayed in the hotel (which was great). We were very tired by the time we got there. The heat and especially the deep gravel of Otahu Eastern Bush Road had taken it's toll. On arrival at the hotel a local told us repeatedly that we looked knackered. We were knackered.
Other than a handful of locals Nightcaps was pretty much deserted. Covid has cut the supply of what tourists used to pass through.
View of the Takitimu Mountains
Ohai
Enjoying a rest at Ohai at the end of the day
My Bike
Nightcaps Hotel (rebuilt in 1947 after the previous incarnation burnt down)
Church and wonky goal posts
Nightcaps main street
Mod cons
Day 4: Nightcaps to Mossburn
It was another really hot day. My knee was hurting so I decided to stick to the seal while Illona and Kate did a nicer and theoretically more demanding gravel route. As it turned out that was a bad decision on my part. My route ended up being a tedious headwind battle under a merciless sun. I was hoping for a dairy to buy a cold drink at Limehills or Dipton, but the few shops were closed as it was a public holiday and with no tourists there would be no reason to open. On the plus side the roads were very quiet.
I refilled my bottles at Dipton West School and had lunch in the shade of a big old tree in the school grounds. The Dipton-Mossburn road would have been really nice except the headwind was brutal. The climb over the watershed between the Oreti and Aparima Rivers was a killer for my knee. I struggled into Mossburn to find Kate and Illona had a nice ride on easy gravel roads.
On the way to Limehills
Roadside cows wondering what I was doing (as was I)
Knee killing climb with a headwind
Day 5: Mossburn to Te Anau
I had to get back to Te Anau by 10am so left shortly after 6am. I stuck to the main highway to make the ride as short as possible as I didn't have any time to spare and my knee needed a rest. After the first hour it was all downhill to Te Anau and easy going. The traffic was light and my mood was good and I made it to Te Anau slightly ahead of schedule. (I didn't stop for any photos).
Notes on the Photos
All photos are shot on Ilford FP4+ at ISO 125. I used 35mm and 50mm lenses. I decided not to crop the images in an attempt to make me think about being more deliberate in composing my photos. This hasn't necessarily worked.